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在肯尼亚的遇见

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在肯尼亚的遇见

在肯尼亚探索动物保护

学习和了解肯尼亚自身的发展

2020年1月5日

厚德书院特色ELP体验式学习课程

肯尼亚行程的师生们

带着好奇 带着问题

踏上了这片神奇的土地

在这里探索
在这里学习
在这里发现
最后 

同学们带着沉甸甸的思考与想法回来

5/5

李雨凌同学与肯尼亚当地学生

“太阳所能照到的地方

  都是我们的国土”

 这里是非洲 是肯尼亚

我带着虔诚的心，踏上非洲这片神奇的土地。

这里

是人类起源的地方

上演着物竞天择

洋溢着浓郁的民族热情

在短短十天的ELP课程中，我们去到了内罗毕、纳库鲁和马塞马拉三座城市。
在内罗毕，我们在内罗毕国家博物馆里探索生命的起源;
在联合国总部了解他们正在进行的项目;
在technical university里和教授畅谈中非关系;
在fidan总部了解肯尼亚的妇女地位;
在纳库鲁，与当地学生交流;
在纳库鲁国家公园寻觅动物;
与国家公园的管理人员了解肯尼亚的自然保护;
在马萨马拉，在国家公园追踪野生动物
……

在来肯尼亚之前，我只知道肯尼亚是东非的一个国家，我自然而然地将对非洲的刻板印象代入进了肯尼亚：贫穷、落后、不文明……

但在这次旅行之后，我却产生了翻天覆地的变化。

这是一个美丽迷人的国家。在这里，天空湛蓝，白云朵朵，人与动物和谐相处。

这是一个努力发展的国家。一路上，我们看到了许多正在修建的基础设施，在学校里，我们看到了许多渴望学习的孩子。

这是一个热情好客的国家。我们一路上路过了许多村庄，当我向窗外望去时，可以看见人们亲切地向我们打招呼。

一路上的所见所闻，使得我对中非关系以及自然保护有了更深的理解与感受。

 

中非关系

 

在从纳库鲁前往马萨马拉的路上，我们大部分时间都走在坑坑洼洼的路上，车子很晃很颠。

 

我突然想起，小时候在老家，路也是这样的崎岖不平，但中国政府实施了「路路通」计划，几年后我的老家便铺起了水泥路。

 

而在肯尼亚，在我们走的路的旁边，也是正在修的水泥路。

根据我们去的肯尼亚的中资企业中国武夷的工作人员说，这些路大部分都是中国人修的。

 

在technical university里的教授跟我们说，越来越多的中国企业到肯尼亚投资，中国帮助肯尼亚修筑了许多道路、铁路，肯尼亚许多大学的实验器材都是从中国引进的，中国和肯尼亚一直有大学交换项目，中国的互惠政策给肯尼亚更多在华投资的机会……

 

蒙巴萨-内罗毕标轨铁路（蒙内铁路）是肯尼亚自独立以来第一条铁路，是肯尼亚独立以来的最大基础设施建设项目，也是一条完全「中国制造」的铁路。铁路自2017年5月31日通车后，对肯尼亚交通运输、经济发展起到极大促进作用。

如今，货物上午在蒙巴萨装车，下午就能运抵内罗毕，物流成本可降低10%—40%,同时也给人们的出行带来了极大便利，原来十几个小时的路程，现在仅需5个小时。

 

街角的中国商店、街头熟悉的标志让我对中国在肯尼亚的影响力有更深的理解。

当我在当地一所高中问那里的女孩：“你们都想去哪里读大学？”

出乎我的意料，她们的回答并没有五花八门，全部都跟我说“中国”。

 

在那一刻，我真正明白了之前教授跟我们讲的中国在肯尼亚的影响力。这种影响力不仅仅体现在肯尼亚中国制造的基础设施、互利互惠的政策，不仅仅体现在内罗毕许多的中国餐厅、中国面孔，也体现在肯尼亚学生对中国的深深向往。

 

“人类命运共同体”的倡议已经成为全球潮流，中国也在积极地响应这一倡议，不断地帮助其他国家，共同发展，共同进步。在这一过程中，中国彰显大国风范。

 

自然保护

纳库鲁国家公园和马塞马拉国家公园美不胜收。在safari的过程中，我们探索大自然，用相机记录它的美。

 

帧帧都是画，但在这后面我看到的是无数被猎人杀死的大象犀牛，是被车活生生碾死的狒狒，是身上套了轮胎的水牛……

纳库鲁国家公园的管理人员告诉我们，每天由当地居民产生的垃圾与废水，从上游漂到下游，导致许多生物的栖息地被破坏，管理人员不得不动用许多钱去清理。

 

专家称长江白鲟灭绝的原因是长江无鱼

澳大利亚的山火或使多种动植物灭绝

人类对于动植物的伤害不仅仅是猎杀，人们的乱扔垃圾，人们的过度捕鱼，人们的肆意纵火，这些行为都会影响生物赖以生存的环境，甚至可能导致物种的灭绝。

 

电影《流浪地球》中有一句话：最初，没有人在意这场灾难。这不过是一场大火，一次旱灾，一个物种的灭绝，一座城市的消失。直到这场灾难和每个人息息相关。

 

其实长江白鲟的灭绝、澳大利亚的山火、肯尼亚无数动物受到人类活动的影响这些事情无一不在告诉我们其实灾难就在我们身边，就在此时此刻上演，也许只是某一个不环保的行为，一个不节制的行为，一个不道德的行为，都会导致灾难。

 

我们通过纳库鲁国家公园的管理人员得知，他们现在为了动物安全正在采取行动。他们在园区内装了摄像头，并且派人去密切关注一些动物，同时他们也在社区内的学校宣传有关自然保护的知识，以此来唤起更多人保护动物的意识。

 

哪怕此时此刻仍有动物因人类的欲望而死去，哪怕此时此刻地球仍在慢慢变暖，哪怕此时此刻仍有物种正走入灭绝，但“万物皆有裂痕，那是光进来的地方”。

 

我相信只要人们能够意识到我们此时正在面临的这场灾难，并且采取行动，召集更多的人一起来保护环境，点点光亮一定可以汇成一片汪洋，万千生灵最终能在地球上和谐相处。

 

我愿意再次来到非洲，来到肯尼亚，聆听这片土地的心跳，感受这片土地蓬勃的生命力，获得来自这片的馈赠。

——李雨凌

探访肯尼亚

——我的环保日记

作者:袁噜噜
2020年1月5日，我跟随本校（深圳厚德书院）的研学小组前往东非的肯尼亚访问，主要考察该国的环境保护状况，至15日回国。我在考察期间写了日记，以下选录两则供感兴趣的朋友参考。
第一则
2020年1月8日
“请问肯尼亚的禁塑令大概花多长时间才取得成功？”我看着首都内罗毕科技大学经济学老教授那双罕见的蓝黄色眼睛，满脸好奇。
“唔……大概六个月吧。”他沉吟了片刻，答道。
“六个月？很快啊……我们恐怕很难在这么短的时间内完全禁绝塑料袋。”我有些惊讶。
“中国允许用塑料袋吗？”他似乎并不了解中国的情形，目光直直地盯着我。
“是的，可以有条件地使用。”
他听见我这样回答，于是开始讲述在肯尼亚使用塑料袋可能构成多么严重的罪行，“在超市里，一个人如果被发现携带塑料袋，可能会被监禁，或被罚款，最高可以达4万美元。”
因为提前做过功课，我对这个回答并不感到意外。
“那塑料的替代品是什么呢？纸袋吗？”
“是的，纸袋。”
“可是，纸袋的成本不是更高吗？”
“的确是。但使用塑料袋的代价是由大自然来承担的，而使用纸袋，我们人类可以消除它的不利影响。”
“难道肯尼亚的禁塑令就推行得那么顺利吗？”
“不，我们也发生过三个月的抗议活动，但法律已经写得很清楚了，所以平息得也比较快。”
“塑料袋流水线上的工人怎么办？他们有何反应？”
“没有办法呀，为了保护我们共同的自然，他们必须承受失业的压力。但我们相信这是完全值得的，政府也会帮助他们尽快找到新的谋生手段，比如在国家森林公园里，部分失业工人可以向各国游客出售他们的手工艺品和食物。”
这是我亲眼所见的，我曾在国家公园向当地妇女购买了三只可爱的长颈鹿小刀刻件。
根据《纽约时报》的调查，2017年，大约有120万吨塑料容器、17.5万吨一次性筷子、16.4万吨塑料袋和4.4万吨的塑料勺子，正在全球的生产和生活中广泛使用，这些产品会产生不同程度的污染。而根据《中国日报》的报道，2017年到2019年中国的塑料产量呈上升趋势。
完全降解一个塑料袋，大自然需要400到1000年的时间。每天经过我们的手撕扯、扔弃的塑料包装，可说是源源不断。从某种意义上说，我们的生活极其奢侈，因为这种奢侈最终是由自然环境来为我们不恰当的生活方式支付高昂的费用。
在肯尼亚这个经济明显比我们落后，连失业补助金都无法保障的国家，厕所抽纸箱旁边却一律贴着“请勿用纸擦拭鞋子和手，树木需要保护”，而不是非常笼统的“请节约用纸，保护环境”。这个国家用法律权威和高度的执行力降伏了挑战环保底线的人，向可持续发展踏出了具有历史意义的一步。
肯尼亚政府和国民对环境的危机意识确实给我上了生动、难忘的一课。
第二则
2020年1月10日
上午启程前往纳库鲁国家公园，听一场关于野生动物保护的讲座。讲座被安排在一间比较原始的小棚屋里，简陋又朴实。
身着翠绿色警服的女警官向我们挥手表示欢迎的时候，我立刻被她的气场吸引住了。
演讲内容通过PPT形式来展示。印象最深刻的是她谈到纳库鲁公园遇到的问题和挑战。
她给我们展示了一张他们原来办公场所的照片，一座建筑立在干燥的土地上。紧接着她又放了一张对比图，上面的建筑基本上要沉入水中了。因为全球气候变暖的影响，肯尼亚每年的降水量都在以惊人的速度增长；人们砍伐林木，导致大量的地表水无法被森林和植被吸收，涵蓄，这些水带着泥沙倾泻而下，使他们的办公场所不得不搬迁。
另一张照片，是一只犀牛被一只白色的轮胎卡住了身体。
她故意摆出一副百思不得其解的样子，“这种事情怎么会发生呢？”看着我们迫不及待想获得答案的神情，她微笑着解释说：在罚款条例颁布以前，每次游客参访不到二十分钟，泥巴地里和草垛中就满是固体的垃圾，大多数是各种塑料包装。当然，汽车轮胎从车上掉下来这种事，也不是完全不可能。
犀牛的繁育量已经超过了公园的承受能力，急需将它们转移到其他条件适宜的生态公园。
还有外来植物的入侵。本土的植物正在遭受侵袭和替换。新物种在动物的食谱中并不受欢迎，意味着动物们的食物来源在逐渐减少。而最麻烦的限制条件就是：化学品的介入并不能使这一切重新达到平衡。
此外，犀牛角的市场交易行为也令人头疼。虽然警官表示目前的法律非常严苛，非法买卖犀牛角的人将面临终身监禁的惩罚，但目前并没有具体的项目可以落实这些法律。我们也很有必要告诉买卖者——犀牛角其实并没有特别的使用价值，它们的化学成分与人的头发差不多。
我想起一部纪录片，讲述肯尼亚的近邻坦桑尼亚白化病患者的遭遇：巫医们蛊惑，告诉他们白化病人的某些身体部位配上神奇的药水，可以带来财富。成百上千的白化病人因此丧命，连几岁大的孩子也无法幸免。明白真相的人都很清楚这种做法毫无人性也毫无意义，但要让某种根深蒂固的观念消失，难于上青天。
我也想起采访过的那位内罗毕科技大学的经济学教授，我问他是否应该将肯尼亚的“一夫多妻制”认定为违法时，他明确表示不赞同。
“为什么？”我追问道。
“因为文化定义了你是谁。”他说。
看来从根本上说，环保与婚姻一样，不仅是一个经济、政治和法律问题，更是一个深层的文化问题。

袁噜噜同学此文已在南方日报发表

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